[Editor's Note: Hi folks -- I just wanted to introduce our new contributor to you, Amanda Schuster. Amanda, a wine consultant in Cobble Hill, will be popping in from time to time to tell us about some Brooklyn's less explored eateries.]

The sign on the wall says, “Today’ s Special: Take it. Leave it.” And that pretty much sums up the neighborhood’s reaction to Sam’s, the family-owned Italian restaurant on Court Street in Cobble Hill that has been a fixture here for decades.

Many people stear clear ancient eatery, with the ancient signage and the wood paneling, wonder who actually eat here. But on a recent Friday night, it was clear that other locals, mostly aged forty-five and younger, hipsters and families alike, were more than glad to. Lou, clad in his “ uniform” of a white shirt and matching visible undershirt, black pants and gold chains, whose father is one of the original owners, was going from table to table joking with customers, popping open bottles of Peroni beer, wiping tables and seating the constant stream of incoming diners in perfect calculation.

The tables are covered in old school, wax red and white checked cloths, and once seated, one is given a huge menu that has been edited by hand over time, with caked layers of white out covering original prices and beverage offerings, probably since correctional fluid was invented. On it you will find all the Italian comfort food and American classics we all love, no beef cheeks or duck sausage here. Cocktail list is comprised of simple, two-ingredient cocktails and wine is cheap-but-decent.

I once came here with my parents, who recognized a long out of date starter of clams Posillipo which they have available in either red or white. I now always go for the red, which is garlicky, fresh and tangy, and must be enjoyed with plenty of bread to mop up the sauce.

The pizza is simply beautiful. There is only one size available: huge. It’s brick oven prepared with a small list of standard toppings. The meat choices, sausage, meatballs, pepperoni, come from local vendors. The abundant sauce (always red) is vivid and flavorful, the high quality cheese has the perfect goo quotient and the crust is thin and crispy, with a few charred bubbles near the outer edge signifying this has been done just right. I personally think this pie is way better than the often undercooked and less tasty Grimaldi’s. And there is no line to wait for it.

You want your meatballs? Your parmigiana? Your baked ziti? Lasagna? Your alfredo sauce? Some steaks and chops maybe? You got it and will love it.

No, it’ s not a culinary objet d’ art and the décor could use some sprucing up. But sometimes a well made red sauce, an uncramped space, a friendly waiter who talks to you like he’s auditioning for a Vegas act and a red checkered table cloth is really all you need. So yeah, I eat there. You should, too.